Back in the Real World.

Gus here:  It's been a few days since we rolled back into Sydney and cut the engines on the trusty Suzukis for the last time.  Back at work now and wondering did we really cover 5000kms in two weeks?

It was a packed fortnight of mud, dust, dirt, bitumen, tents, steak sandwiches, road trains, outback pubs, little country towns, great people, brilliant night skies, vast landscapes and roads disappearing into the horizon.

And then there were the wild brumbies running majestically over the hills, emus herding their young chicks, kangaroos aplenty, camels, the desert green and in bloom from the recent rains.

Might have to do it again sometime.




I've got a few people to thank, including some without whose help I'd probably still be stuck in Bedourie.
Mark, of course. Not only a great travelling companion, but the whole Gulf To Gulf trip was his idea and it was his planning and determination that made it happen.  And he asked me if I'd like to join him for the trip.  Who'd say no?!
I spent a day in a phone box in Bedourie trying to find new brake parts and I want to thank Tony from Team Moto and Veronica from Metalgear International, both in Brisbane, for understanding the situation I was in and helping out as much as they could.  Thanks also to Craig in the Bedourie Shire workshop who let me use what tools I needed (all to no avail).
Also a big thanks (again) to Tony of Hepburn Motorcycles in Broken Hill for finally getting the bike fixed and donating his time to Gulf to Gulf.

 Here's a few shots from the trip.

Home at last

Mark writing:

Sunset over the Gulf of Carpentaria, Karumba QLD

All good things must come to an end, and this adventure was certainly GOOD. After 14 days and 5000+ kilometres, the last days of riding took us through Parkes and Orange in NSW, before a much anticipated family reunion in Richmond. I've since been asked, "What was the best bit? What was it like?" Well, these pics should show that it was beautiful, expansive, challenging, tasty, surprising, tiring, exciting, alternately hot and bitterly cold, and full of wonderful people (and animals) to meet. In other words, a true adventure.

The road heading east from Bedourie QLD

The roadhouse special. "Make mine a sarsparilla."

Approaching Hungerford NSW

There are tyres somewhere under that mud

Everything is big in Queensland

Sturt's desert pea

A friendly local

There are two people I must thank. Gus Algie has been a trusted travel companion. Great company through (literally) sunshine and rain, mud and sand, and a dab hand with a hex wrench, Gus made this trip a light-hearted blast and this blog would not exist without him. He was present, willing and more than able for every other kilometre that clicked over, and wisely reminded me that we make our own adventure. I raise my visor to you, Gus!
And, of course, I thank Sarah. In the many months that the Gulf to Gulf trip took to plan, Sarah was freakishly supportive and enthusiastic, even when my energy faded, and willingly became a single parent in my absence. The trip simply would not have gone ahead without her. Thank you for the gift of this trip, babe.
As of this writing, the Gulf to Gulf ride has raised just over $7000, generously donated by friends, family, people I have met once, and people I have never met. To say I am thrilled by this is a massive understatement. I've found it personally challenging to say to people, effectively, "Hey, I think these poor, marginalised kids in Bangledesh should be able to go to school, and I want you to think the same way -- and I want you to demonstrate it by giving me money." But people gave and continue to give (go, Cassie, go!), so if you would like to donate, all I can say is THANK YOU and point you to the link for secure donations on the right-hand side of this page.
Mark

Hi KC/2H, guess where I am?

The Big Willandra

After checking out the (rarely) full Menindee Lakes, and sampling Menidee's bacon and egg rolls, it was on via the dirt to Ivanhoe. It's always a good idea to check with the locals on road conditions -- the dirt roads that are fine now were impassable not long ago, due to rain. We bush camped in the Willandra National Park last night, and we were delighted to find a fully restored sheep station, with the homestead (pictured) looking out over a manmade billabong.

Family time

Look who the wind blew into Broken Hill.

Gulfed!

Gulf to Gulf is achieved! To keep to our schedule I stayed in Broken Hill and got the bike fixed. Meanwhile Mark made a mad 750km dash to the Spencer Gulf and back (see the last two posts). So no Sam, we didn't get to race each other to the sea, dammit!

Bike fixer in Broken Hill

Gus here: Stopped in Broken Hill for a day to finally get the bike fixed. 1500kms with no front brake is enough. So a big thank you to Tony of Hepburn Motorcycles who did a great job and donated his time and effort to Gulf to Gulf.

Spencer Gulf! Mission Accomplished

Wild Dog Fence, QLD/NSW border

Tomorrow -- Gulf #2!

We've invaded Broken Hill, via Wanaaring and White Cliffs, covered in dust and dirt. Tonight we share a camping area with 40 geology students from University of South Australia -- I hope they're ready for our stereo snoring! Tomorrow, it's off to our second Gulf (Spencer Gulf, that is), in the lovely resort town of Port Augusta (Mark's allowed to say that becasue he's been there before and used to live in Adelaide). Thanks for reading!

Hey KC and 2H!

We've seen lots of animals on our long ride. Some of them have looked very surprised to see us! Which of these animals that we have seen are not native Australian animals: camel, kangaroo, brolga, Major Mitchell cockatoo, fox, goat, emu, rabbit, stump-tailed lizard, wild horse, wedge-tailed eagle.

Thanks Scott and Kaylene!

Thanks to Scott and Kaylene, goat farmers from west of Bourke, for their generous donation to Gulf to Gulf. Scott was amazed that the Bangladeshi families that we hope to support only earn about 90c per day. It's not too late to make a donation -- but we're almost home.

White Cliffs

A great morning on the dirt from Wanaaring to White Cliffs. 200km of fast and dusty riding with some creek crossings. Now on to broken hill.

rain rain rain

In Quilpie after a wet and chilly ride from Windorah. With mobile coverage!

The day we didn't go to Birdsville

Gus here:  To add to Mark's spiel, it rained all night on our tents in Bedourie and though we could have headed down to Birdsville the track further south was shut and we felt there was a chance we could be rained in and stuck there so Windorah was the new destination.
Mud.  I ended up rolling in it.  So did the bike.  So after a long cold ride found ourselves in Windorah, which is a really nice tiny town to find yourself in after a wet and cold day on the road.
Next stop Eulo, where they have mobile coverage!
Yeah Tim, Midar!  I told Mark that story while we were stuck in Bedourie.  But we didn't abandon the vehicle this time.

Le (de)tour, le mud

Birdsville just didn't want us. The Birdsville Track was closed and there was little prospect of it opening, so we hitched up our spirit of adventure, kicked the dust of our boots and head east to Windorah. Unfortunately, the dust was soon replaced by mud. The Bedourie police said. "Yeah, you'll be right getting to Windorah. Watch out for water on the road, and there's some mud too. I'll give you six hours, so call me when you get there." Six-and-half hours later -- hours full of amazing green plains stretching to nowhere; intimate moments with some of the country's finest soil turned into mud; driving rain; and kangaroos, emus, brumbies and future hamburgers -- we rolled into Windorah and a hot shower. Motorcycle riding rule #48: you can never be too warm on a 'bike. So, we have Gulf # 2 in our sights, via White Cliffs and Broken Hill -- it would be dandy if it stopped raining.

And more Bedourie

Gus here: Still in Bedourie.  The mail plane should be in any moment with a new front brake disc.  Spent the last day and a half organising spare parts and deliveries from the Bedourie public phone box.  Not even Telstra mobile gets to Bedourie.  Unfortunately can't get the old front disc off here in Bedourie.  Been told there's a legend of a mechanic in Birdsville (which is convenient).  Just to throw a spanner in, the Birdsville track is closed at the moment, but the locals say it could open tomorrow so we're hitting the road at day break!
Unfortunately we don't have any way of putting our photos online at the moment, but due to demand more photos of Gus on the way! 

We know Bedourie VERY well

Greetings from the town of Bedourie, just north of Birdsville. We have stopped here for a couple of days to repair Gus' motorcycle, which needs its front brake system rebuilt. Parts will be flown in from Brisbane tomorrow, if we can connect all the dots and make it happen.
Thanks to everyone for your messages! Finn and Tilda, you are spot on -- they are water lilies and they are beautiful. We have also seen lots of brolgas, camels and brumbies. Fiona, the cushion is working just fine, thanks, but I do walk a little funny when I get off the bike.
I hope our next update will see us somewhere near Birdsville.

Djarra

After our first stint on the dirt (fun) stop off in Djarra before heading on to Boulia.

Cloncurry curry

Cloncurry

Had a curry in the pub at Cloncurry.

KC/2H, what are these flowers?

Karumba! We're on the gulf

A long hot day on the bikes with the final reward of seeing the sun set into the sea. Karumba feels like a great place to chill out for a couple days but it's back in the saddle tomorrow.

out back

On the road to Georgetown.

Day one is done

Sitting in an open air bar in Undara drinking a beer, listening to the wild life and watching the footy on tv. Got out of cairns at 11.00 after luggage conniptions and 280kms looking forward to 500km tomorrow. Bring it on!

Sit, Big Fella

Let's Stop At Another Bike Shop!

We're switching to these!

Loaded

Cairns

Sunset At 11000 metres

Goodnight, ladies.

We're packed, so let's go!

But will it all fit on the motorbikes? (Thanks again for the jacket and gear, Leo.)

Feedback from the ground

Development projects can seem distant, unreal activities. They can remain, literally, otherworldly in our imaginations. The following first-hand feedback from a TEAR Project Officer who visited the MCESP program may help it all to seem more real.